Self-leveling concrete has gained popularity for its ability to create a smooth, flat surface with minimal effort. However, despite its advantages, several common issues can arise when working with this material. Understanding these problems is crucial when deciding the best concrete repair method for your project. This article will review the top five issues associated with self-leveling concrete and how to pick the best concrete leveling method.
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Self-leveling concrete is a versatile product that creates a smooth, level surface on various substrates with minimal effort. Unlike traditional concrete, it flows easily, making it ideal for smoothing uneven surfaces. It is popular in renovation projects for its flat, polished finish. DIY enthusiasts and professionals appreciate its convenience for small-scale projects or quick flooring repairs. However, it presents challenges, particularly for beginners, making it essential to understand these issues before use.
Self-leveling concrete can be an excellent solution for various flooring applications, but knowing when and where to use this material is essential.
Self-leveling concrete is an excellent choice for projects where a smooth, even surface is desired, such as when preparing subfloors. It’s ideal for leveling floors before installing tile, hardwood, or carpet and works well over surfaces with minor imperfections or unevenness. For indoor projects, particularly in basements, kitchens, or bathrooms, self-leveling concrete can provide a clean, level base for further construction.
Self-leveling concrete is also beneficial in areas difficult to reach with traditional tools, such as narrow corridors or small rooms. Its fluid consistency allows it to flow into tight spaces, creating an even surface without requiring extensive manual labor or adjustment.
While self-leveling concrete is quite versatile, it may not be the optimal choice in some situations. For example, self-leveling concrete is unsuitable for vertical applications. Unlike conventional concrete, which can be manipulated to adhere to vertical surfaces, self-leveling concrete is designed to flow and level itself horizontally.
It is also vital to note that not all floors are suitable candidates for self-leveling concrete; one must consider the condition of the existing subfloor. If the subfloor has significant structural issues or damage, applying self-leveling concrete could lead to further complications and is not recommended.
Another inappropriate use of self-leveling concrete is in outdoor applications or areas subjected to extreme temperatures and weather conditions. The material’s composition is not designed to withstand freeze-thaw cycles or direct exposure to elements, which can lead to premature degradation.
Finally, self-leveling concrete should not be used in areas subject to heavy loads or traffic, such as garages or driveways. The material is not engineered to bear substantial weight and may not provide the durability or support required in these environments.
While self-leveling concrete is marketed for its ease of use, DIY enthusiasts often encounter several challenges during application. Note the different areas where a beginner may experience problems:
If not applied correctly, self-leveling concrete is prone to cracking or crumbling. Factors like improper mixing, insufficient surface preparation, or incorrect drying conditions can all contribute to these issues. Cracking typically occurs when the concrete is too thin or external pressures exceed the material’s load capacity. This is often seen in high foot traffic areas or where heavy objects are placed. Crumbling can occur when the surface is not sealed correctly or when the concrete experiences significant temperature fluctuations. Both conditions compromise the integrity of the flooring, leading to costly repairs.
One of the inherent limitations of self-leveling concrete is its restricted application thickness. Typically, it is applied in layers no thicker than 1/2 to 1 inch, although some manufacturers boast that their products can be poured up to 2 inches thick. However, this may not be sufficient for addressing significant level differences. Also, applying too thick a layer in a single application can exacerbate drying issues and increase the likelihood of cracking, reducing the solution’s long-term effectiveness.
Self-leveling concrete is a surface-level solution and does not address deeper structural issues. If the subfloor has significant movement or instability, applying self-leveling concrete will, at most, temporarily mask these problems and may even worsen them. Identifying and rectifying any foundational issues before applying self-leveling concrete is crucial. Failure to do so can lead to recurring issues and the need for continual maintenance and repairs.
While versatile, self-leveling concrete has limitations regarding where and how it can be used. It is most effective indoors and for surfaces not subject to heavy loads or constant wear and tear. Areas such as driveways, garages, and industrial settings where resilience is key are not well-suited for self-leveling concrete. Alternative flooring solutions should be considered in spaces requiring enhanced strength and stability to ensure the longevity and safety of the surface.
For those seeking a more robust solution to concrete leveling, polyurethane foam injection is the superior option. This method, also known as polyjacking, involves injecting foam beneath the existing slab, which expands and raises the concrete to the desired level. There are numerous benefits, including quick application, minimal disruption, increased load-bearing capacity, and greater versatility since it can be used in interior and exterior spaces.
Polyurethane foam injections provide longevity and resilience, ensuring a stable surface that stands up to the test of time and heavy use.
In situations where structural issues are beyond the reach of surface-level treatments or even polyjacking, complete concrete replacement may be necessary.
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Concrete replacement, while more invasive, offers a fresh start for severely compromised surfaces. It resolves the underlying issues, providing a clean slate for future flooring applications.
Regardless of the chosen solution, addressing underlying issues is paramount to preventing future settlement and instability. Conduct thorough assessments of the affected area and work with professionals to determine the best approach. For example, you may need a retaining wall if you live near a cliff and the foundation experienced differential settlement due to soil erosion. Or, if your area suffers from frequent flooding, you may need a superior drainage system. Taking the time to address these problems properly ensures the success of the current project and protects against future complications and expenses.
The working timeframe for the epoxy before it cures and hardens is around 8 mins (lots of variables). If you have a large amount of mixed epoxy in your container, it’ll accelerate the chemical reaction because of the extra heat that the mix is generating and cure even faster. The downside is that none of the instructions we read gave us actual minutes or amounts to work within. Neither did any of the YouTube videos or blogs we came across. I had to talk to a rep over the to get this information. Unfortunately, it was after we messed up.
The first batch we mixed for the seal coat was a large amount of mixture. Enough for three RV-sized countertops. Not knowing what we were doing it took us longer to apply the seal coat on the first time. By the time we were done with one seal coat, the 2 quarts of mixed epoxy had already hardened in the bucket and was useless.
Self-leveling epoxy is extremely messy. This is kind of expected since the mixture is made to flow off the surface it’s being poured onto (that’s how it self-levels). Be prepared for epoxy to drip everywhere. It’s actually more than "some drips" but more like an overflow of epoxy coming off the edge of the countertop. It’s a good idea to make sure the edges of the plastic sheets used to protect the floor are curled upwards to prevent the epoxy from flowing off.
We had our three tabletop/countertop on a sawhorse in the middle of our main room. There was only enough space to walk around three sides of the entire setup, making it hard to reach all the areas of the countertops we applied this on. The situation got worse once the floor became a lake of epoxy from the flood coat.
The other downside of using self-leveling epoxy inside an RV, especially in the southeast in June is the heat, humidity, and lack of ventilation. The ideal temperature conditions to use the epoxy in is 70°F – 85°F. Reaching this temperature isn’t a problem in June in Asheville, but we also had to keep all the windows and vents closed to keep the place dirt/dust free. We couldn’t stop sweating! We actually had to make sure our beads of sweat didn't roll off ourselves and onto the poured epoxy. It also meant there was no ventilation to help decrease the harsh smell of the mixture.
Instead, find a large, well-ventilated space to use self-leveling epoxy. We wish we had access to such a space.
The epoxy has to be poured on a level surface, which can be potentially difficult in an RV. There’s a 4-hour wait between coats, then it has to cure for three days (minimum) before using the surface. A heat gun (or propane torch) has to be used to get rid of any air bubbles that appear after pouring a flood coat (there will definitely be air bubbles). And then it needs to be checked again several times to make sure additional air bubbles don’t appear. If a cured epoxy surface reaches 120°F, it’ll soften and create an indentation if something is on the surface. Although I was told by Pro Marine Supplies' rep that it will relevel itself.
We noticed after pouring a seal coat that random areas of the paint on our dinette table was being “eaten” away from the epoxy and leaving behind pinholes that showed the underneath wood surface. When I asked about it, the Pro Marine Supplies’ tech support rep said it’s because paint and wood are porous materials. But she didn’t give me a solution.
If you have dogs, you’re guaranteed to have at least one strand of dog hair epoxied into your surface. Ours has a Tybee fur in it, so that’s ok.
Our surface also has bubbles in it and came out kind of wavy in areas, however this might be due to us being stingy with the flood coat pour. This is noticeable in the right light or if we look closely. From afar it looks pretty nice.
The edges of the table/countertops came out the worst. The self-leveling action creates drips at the edges, which is normal and expected. We used foam brushes to smooth out and evenly cover the edges with epoxy, but we didn’t do good enough of a job. Perhaps our work space was too small to let us access all the sides of the tables well. Perhaps we didn’t go back frequently enough while the epoxy was dripping and drying to smooth out the surfaces. Instructions say the remaining droplets can be trimmed while drying and then sanded smooth after curing. While we did our best to remove the droplets under the table, we still have dried up droplets of epoxy stuck there, which you can feel when you run your fingers under our table. The sanding didn’t work out great, it created a scuffed-up look that was worse than leaving them alone. The assumption seems to be that the product will be used on surfaces which are basically only viewed from above (unless you’re 5). The underside of the table edges can be made smooth – but not “pretty”, which is an issue in an RV because there is seating across our dinette and you can see the underside.
Ok, not necessarily “don’t”. But be aware that applying self-leveling epoxy on a countertop with an already-installed sink gets complicated. The self-leveling epoxy is made to spread and flow over edges. This means it will drip over and into a sink unless a dam is created to stop the flow. But then you need a way to remove the dam, so it has to be made so it doesn’t get buried in epoxy. This is one of the main reasons why we ended up not using it on our kitchen and bathroom countertops. We didn’t fully understand this dilemma until it was too late (as in we based our entire countertop remodel on using self-leveling epoxy).
The tech support rep also told me that one of the cool things about epoxy is that it can be worked on again and again. She said that if are a lot of defects on a cured epoxy surface, it can be sanded down and more self-leveling epoxy can be reapplied. That can be in a few months or years, which is great, but if there is a problem with the surface beneath the original epoxy coating (such as our paint which "eaten" away), that is there forever.
So technically we can work on ours again. But that’s not happening because it was such a hassle the first time around. Besides, we live in an RV that’s not even remotely fancy. And I’ve learned to let go of the idea of "perfection" with the Toaster.
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