The working timeframe for the epoxy before it cures and hardens is around 8 mins (lots of variables). If you have a large amount of mixed epoxy in your container, it’ll accelerate the chemical reaction because of the extra heat that the mix is generating and cure even faster. The downside is that none of the instructions we read gave us actual minutes or amounts to work within. Neither did any of the YouTube videos or blogs we came across. I had to talk to a rep over the to get this information. Unfortunately, it was after we messed up.
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The first batch we mixed for the seal coat was a large amount of mixture. Enough for three RV-sized countertops. Not knowing what we were doing it took us longer to apply the seal coat on the first time. By the time we were done with one seal coat, the 2 quarts of mixed epoxy had already hardened in the bucket and was useless.
Self-leveling epoxy is extremely messy. This is kind of expected since the mixture is made to flow off the surface it’s being poured onto (that’s how it self-levels). Be prepared for epoxy to drip everywhere. It’s actually more than "some drips" but more like an overflow of epoxy coming off the edge of the countertop. It’s a good idea to make sure the edges of the plastic sheets used to protect the floor are curled upwards to prevent the epoxy from flowing off.
We had our three tabletop/countertop on a sawhorse in the middle of our main room. There was only enough space to walk around three sides of the entire setup, making it hard to reach all the areas of the countertops we applied this on. The situation got worse once the floor became a lake of epoxy from the flood coat.
The other downside of using self-leveling epoxy inside an RV, especially in the southeast in June is the heat, humidity, and lack of ventilation. The ideal temperature conditions to use the epoxy in is 70°F – 85°F. Reaching this temperature isn’t a problem in June in Asheville, but we also had to keep all the windows and vents closed to keep the place dirt/dust free. We couldn’t stop sweating! We actually had to make sure our beads of sweat didn't roll off ourselves and onto the poured epoxy. It also meant there was no ventilation to help decrease the harsh smell of the mixture.
Instead, find a large, well-ventilated space to use self-leveling epoxy. We wish we had access to such a space.
The epoxy has to be poured on a level surface, which can be potentially difficult in an RV. There’s a 4-hour wait between coats, then it has to cure for three days (minimum) before using the surface. A heat gun (or propane torch) has to be used to get rid of any air bubbles that appear after pouring a flood coat (there will definitely be air bubbles). And then it needs to be checked again several times to make sure additional air bubbles don’t appear. If a cured epoxy surface reaches 120°F, it’ll soften and create an indentation if something is on the surface. Although I was told by Pro Marine Supplies' rep that it will relevel itself.
We noticed after pouring a seal coat that random areas of the paint on our dinette table was being “eaten” away from the epoxy and leaving behind pinholes that showed the underneath wood surface. When I asked about it, the Pro Marine Supplies’ tech support rep said it’s because paint and wood are porous materials. But she didn’t give me a solution.
If you have dogs, you’re guaranteed to have at least one strand of dog hair epoxied into your surface. Ours has a Tybee fur in it, so that’s ok.
Our surface also has bubbles in it and came out kind of wavy in areas, however this might be due to us being stingy with the flood coat pour. This is noticeable in the right light or if we look closely. From afar it looks pretty nice.
The edges of the table/countertops came out the worst. The self-leveling action creates drips at the edges, which is normal and expected. We used foam brushes to smooth out and evenly cover the edges with epoxy, but we didn’t do good enough of a job. Perhaps our work space was too small to let us access all the sides of the tables well. Perhaps we didn’t go back frequently enough while the epoxy was dripping and drying to smooth out the surfaces. Instructions say the remaining droplets can be trimmed while drying and then sanded smooth after curing. While we did our best to remove the droplets under the table, we still have dried up droplets of epoxy stuck there, which you can feel when you run your fingers under our table. The sanding didn’t work out great, it created a scuffed-up look that was worse than leaving them alone. The assumption seems to be that the product will be used on surfaces which are basically only viewed from above (unless you’re 5). The underside of the table edges can be made smooth – but not “pretty”, which is an issue in an RV because there is seating across our dinette and you can see the underside.
Ok, not necessarily “don’t”. But be aware that applying self-leveling epoxy on a countertop with an already-installed sink gets complicated. The self-leveling epoxy is made to spread and flow over edges. This means it will drip over and into a sink unless a dam is created to stop the flow. But then you need a way to remove the dam, so it has to be made so it doesn’t get buried in epoxy. This is one of the main reasons why we ended up not using it on our kitchen and bathroom countertops. We didn’t fully understand this dilemma until it was too late (as in we based our entire countertop remodel on using self-leveling epoxy).
The tech support rep also told me that one of the cool things about epoxy is that it can be worked on again and again. She said that if are a lot of defects on a cured epoxy surface, it can be sanded down and more self-leveling epoxy can be reapplied. That can be in a few months or years, which is great, but if there is a problem with the surface beneath the original epoxy coating (such as our paint which "eaten" away), that is there forever.
So technically we can work on ours again. But that’s not happening because it was such a hassle the first time around. Besides, we live in an RV that’s not even remotely fancy. And I’ve learned to let go of the idea of "perfection" with the Toaster.
“Self-leveling underlayment” (SLU) is a bit of a misnomer. Although this type of product is incredibly useful, it does require a thoughtful installer to ensure the best results. Follow these guidelines to prevent issues in your self-leveling underlayment installation.
Select a product appropriate for the installation: Know your installation environment and familiarize yourself with the relevant ASTM standards for strength. A commercial floor subject to heavy rolling loads will require a higher-grade self-leveling underlayment (like TEC® Level Set 300 Self-Leveling Underlayment) than a floor in a single-family home.
Also, it is critical to understand your project timeline and choose a product that fits within the appropriate schedule. Some products may require 24-48 hours prior to installing floor coverings while other more premium products are ready to accept moisture-sensitive floor covering in 12 to 16 hours.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Self-Leveling Compound Manufacturer. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Consult product data sheets for information on tensile strength, compressive strength and flexural strength, as well as recommended cure times.
Generally speaking, there are two types of self-leveling underlayments – traditional and next generation technologies. The most noticeable difference between traditional and next generation SLUs are the flowability and the smooth surface profile of each product. Check out TEC's new high-flow SLU: Level Set 500 HF and for best practice tips for successful high flow SLU installations view our Technical Bulletin.
Some installers prefer the attributes of traditional SLUs because of the working properties. Others prefer the new technology for its high flow properties and extended working time.
The job scope will dictate which product technology should be used for installation. Traditional SLUs work best for deep fill applications greater than 3/16”. The newer technologies are ideal for thinner applications.
Know your substrate: Most SLUs require that all surfaces are fully stable and structurally sound prior to the application of a self-leveling underlayment. For example, understanding your existing substrate porosity is critical to choosing the proper primer. (A simple water droplet test will determine the surface porosity per ASTM F). Equally important is to know the make-up of the existing substrate. For example: typically, sound concrete requires a single coat of primer. Unsealed Gypcrete may require additional steps, including multiple coats of primer prior to the application of cement-based self-leveling underlayment.
Prepare your substrate: Make sure to plug all floor openings, gaps and cracks and install termination dams to prevent any seepage. Consult with product manufacturers to determine moisture limitations of the floor covering, self-leveler, and adhesives to determine if moisture mitigation is needed.
If moisture mitigation is required, this must be done prior to installation of the self-leveling underlayment.
Self-leveling underlayments require the use of a primer prior to installation (like the TEC Multipurpose Primer). Failure to use product recommended primer may result in installation failure. Primer retains the moisture within the self-leveling underlayment to allow proper curing. Secondarily, it acts as a bonding agent to ensure the SLU bonds properly to the substrate. Refer to the primer label for information regarding application methods and dilution per ASTM F.
Beyond priming, most self-leveling underlayments require that the substrate is free from any contaminants that may inhibit bond, including adhesive residue, sealers/curing compounds, oil, grease, loose or peeling paint, or other contaminants. Polished underlayments will require epoxy primers and/or a specific Concrete Surface Profile (CSP), and in these cases, mechanical abrasion (shot-blasting), is required.
Proper water demand: Mix your self-leveling underlayment within the water range specified on the bag. Overwatering will lower the strength of the underlayment and may cause cracking and disbonding. Additionally, a white film may form on the surface of the cured underlayment if the product is overwatered. Failure to properly mix the SLU may make it difficult to work with and lead to improper flow, cracking, or an irregular surface. Mix a minimum of two bags at a time when barrel mixing to ensure optimum efficiencies during the application process. In addition, some SLUs can be pumped. If pumping, special attention is needed to maintain proper water ratios and prevent overwatering. Follow equipment and product manufacturer’s recommendations when pumping self-leveler.
Product and ambient temperature: Make sure that the temperature of the room is within the manufacturer’s acceptable range. A climate that is too cold or too hot can affect the product, such as increased set time in cool temperatures or reduction in heal time in hot environments. Temperature and humidity will affect flow, working time and set time of the SLU.
Additionally, the temperature of the powder and the water is crucial. Leaving product in the sun, or in a hot environment may lead to flash setting. In situations where warm product is unavoidable, mixing with cold water may help combat installation issues. To maintain cold water temperatures in hot conditions, use blocked or bagged ice in your water barrel.
Whether the environment is warm or cool, acclimating the product prior to mixing is always a best practice.
Use as recommended: Manufacturers will specify the maximum thickness of their product. Some products allow for the addition of aggregate (pea gravel) to increase the depth of the pour, while others only allow their product to be used neat. Be sure to use the appropriate aggregate size and amount when extending a self-leveling underlayment in a single pour. Two separate pours or multiple lifts will achieve the target thickness without the use of additional aggregate. Once the SLU from the first pour becomes a walkable surface, you may proceed to apply the proper primer coat for the additional pour or lift. If a surface is extremely uneven in isolated areas with depressions greater than ½” deep (bird bath), you may treat these areas independent to the final pour. This will assist with the application process by using a consistent amount of self-leveling underlayment throughout the application. Always consult with manufacturers to determine the most suitable product for your application.
Protect your freshly poured underlayment: All self-leveling underlayments should be protected from direct air movement (drafts) during the initial curing process (2-6 hours) as they may cure prematurely which leads to cracking. Generally, most underlayments are not considered final wear layer surfaces. During the final curing process (2-24 hours) they should be protected from excessive construction. Traffic without protection can lead to gouging and irregular surfaces. Allow to cure completely to prevent any unnecessary surface damage, prior to the floor covering installation.
A common theme connects these successful self-leveling underlayment application guidelines: noting and adhering to the manufacturer’s instructions. You must read labels and product data sheets carefully to ensure products perform as desired.
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